Oct 032015
 

I’m posting over at imagine gnats today about my favorite things to wear: basics! I just realized that I forgot to mention the sizes I sewed on my imagine gnats blog post, so I’ll note them here. :}

I made a Deer & Doe plantain tee (size 36, Art Gallery strawberry, no alterations) and Sewaholic’s Thurlow shorts (size 4, Kaufman houndstooth twill, increased crotch depth and length by 1/4″ on both the front and back pattern pieces, but that didn’t really work out).
plantain tee and thurlow shorts

And then I also got to make Jamie Christina’s Mission Maxi tank (size 4 bust graded to size 10 waist and hip, Art Gallery air brush flight) and Megan Nielsen’s Brumby skirt (size S, Kaufman Swiss dot chambray, version 3 with version 2’s pockets).
mission maxi tank, brumby skirt, uptown/downtown tank

Finally, I made Glowbug a matching outfit with leftovers! 😀 😀 😀 For her tank, I used Sew Straight & Gather’s Uptown/Downtown dress with no sleeves, and I straightened out the sides since it flares out going into the skirt. Her skirt is a simple gathered pair of rectangles… somehow, I thought it would be more flarey if I put two layers of Swiss dot and one layer of lining, but you can’t even tell that the extra layers are there. hah!
matchy matchy!

More information (and nicer pictures) are on the imagine gnats blog, so maybe go take a peeky… 🙂

Jun 022015
 

I was super excited about Megan Nielsen’s latest Brumby skirt, so I bought it right when it was released and sewed it up that weekend. And I’m a big old copycat, so the first version I made was a view 1 (above the knee and for medium to heavy fabric) denim version with the first nice topstitching I’ve done, ever!
denim brumby skirt

The instructions are fantastic (as usual) and include nice tips for beginning sewers, like pinking the pocket seam allowance, applying the interfacing to the waistband facing pieces (I’ve used other patterns that don’t specify whether to interface the facing or exterior pieces), and understitching the waistband seam. The skirt is designed to have an exposed metal zipper in the back, which would be so cool! — but I didn’t have the right kind of zipper in my stash, so I just put in a slotted zipper with a hook and eye at the top. (After reading another blogger mentioning that she noticed many women at an event whose zippers were coming open because they didn’t have a hook and eye at the top, I feel compelled to put them in. :D) Oh, now I see that the slotted part kind of pulls open… so it’s a good thing the zipper matches the topstiching thread!
brumby skirt slotted zipper

I made a size small with no adjustments and was able to make this skirt with just one yard of fabric. I did have to cut the waistband facing and pocket lining out of different lining fabric, and the grainline of my pocket facing pieces are perpendicular to what they should have been, but that’s fine with me.
denim brumby skirt

I looooove the Brumby’s deep pockets, and I also think the contoured waistband is fantastic. It gives such a nicely fitted look to the waistline, but it’s actually really comfy and skims over my waist without feeling restrictive. I find it a noticeable contrast with my Hollyburns, which also cinch my waist nicely, but definitely feel cinchy.

Oh, and I was so excited about how the topstitching turned out — I kept stopping to squee about how pretty it was! I used actual topstitching thread, an actual topstitching needle, and my Juki TL-2000qi (as opposed to my Juki F600, which I feel like has a weaker motor) and it was easier to do than I had worried it would be.
denim brumby skirt topstitching

I’m also wearing the new Eucalypt tank I made at the beginning of the month. This was the shirt where I realized that I shouldn’t have been pulling the bias tape facing while I was applying it to the armholes and then applied it properly on the neckline, so you can see how the arm binding is ripply but the neckline is smooth. I think I need to make a larger size, but I find it a little boggling since my bust measurement is only 33″, and I’m pretty sure this is a size small, which is supposed to be for a 36″ bust!
brumby skirt and eucalypt tank

The second Brumby I made was view 3 (knee-length for light fabric) with view 2’s pockets, using 1.5 yards of rayon challis. I ended up whapping off an inch or two from the hem after it was almost done, and I hope I can figure out how much to adjust my pattern now because I like this length. (About the weird pictures — it was drizzling then, and my skirt isn’t actually spotty. 😀 )
rayon challis brumby skirt

Since the rayon challis is a little delicate (and shifty shifty shifty), the pockets were pretty droopy, and the hem actually drooped correspondingly under the pockets. I’m not sure whether that was due to the fabric or slight tension issue my machine was having, but I ended up having to trim mountain-shaped bits out from under the pockets in order to even out the hem. I did wonder if that’s why view 3 isn’t designed with pockets, but I’ll take droopy pockets over no pockets any day! 😀
rayon challis brumby skirt

I lined this skirt since the rayon is a tiny bit sheer (I could just see the silhouette of my legs), and for that I used a yard of some polyester that felt pretty stable and strong. I was a dope and used the front pattern piece with pocket cutouts when I was cutting my lining, but I wasn’t willing to go buy more lining fabric, so I just patched it back up. It’s all enclosed now so you can’t see it, but the gathered lining was showing through the thin rayon waistband, so I serged the lining’s waistband+gathered edge, and I think now it’s not super noticeable.
brumby skirt polyester lining

I did try topstitching the rayon to see how it looked, and it looked terrible, so I stitched in the ditch under the waistband. I also used an invisible zipper plus another hook and eye closure, and I’m happy with how it turned out!
rayon challis brumby skirt zipper

I only serged the bottom edge of the lining because the polyester didn’t seem to fray very easily, and I serged and turned up once for the rayon challis hem because that looked nicer from the outside than when I tried doing a normal rolled hem.
rayon challis brumby hem

I’m super happy with my two Brumbies! This is such an adorable skirt pattern, and I’m looking forward to making more versions, especially denim ones with more topstitching. 🙂
rayon challis brumby skirt