Jul 052016

Subtitle: Does this make you dizzy? (skirt edition)
Subsubtitle: This is what happens when you’re a bullheaded sewer

When Butterick 6285 first came out, it didn’t grab my eye enough to click through to see the pattern details. But then I saw Allie J’s adorable version, and that did make me want to get it! I even went crazy and bought 2.5 yards of silk dupioni from Marcy Tilton (so not bargain fabric) to make a big, twirly skirt, without even having made a test version, first.

When I actually got around to sewing B6285, I came to my senses and decided to start with a wearable muslin. This was mainly because I read a bunch of PatternReview sewers who mentioned nonsensical seam allowances (1″ on the sides and 1.5″ for the center back) and the waistband diagram that didn’t match the actual waistband, and that made me worry that this was not a pattern to blindly trust in.

b6285 - wearing it off-center's all the rage

In retrospect, I made a few mistakes off the bat. My stash choices were limited and I ended up using some crepe de chine, which is drapier than the pattern seems to indicate, since it mentions broadcloth, satin, and taffeta. Also, even though I know Butterick/McCall’s/Vogue includes a lot of ease, for some reason I thought: maybe Gertie’s is different! … and I sewed a size 12 for a 28.5″ waist. This was toooo big. I don’t like my waistbands to just rest over my waist; I like them to cinch my waist in since I’m too lazy to get my muscles to do that!

b6285 too big, my fault, still don't like it

Why didn’t I fit as I sewed? The crepe de chine was very shiftystretchy, and I worried that handling it too much would make it grow. Then why didn’t I stay-stitch the curves and then try it on as I sewed? I’m still struggling with figuring out what settings on my machine will not make a line of stitching pucker on a single layer of fine/shifty/annoying fabric, so I’d rather just sew everything to the end and hope for the best, BLEAH.

So, ehhhhhhhhhhh. I don’t like where the pleats ended up, although perhaps they’d be placed better if I sized down. I don’t like my test version enough to try again, though, and to add insult to injury, you can’t even really see what I mean since I apparently took most of my pictures with my skirt rotated off center. hah! Oh wait, I found a phone pic where it was on straight.

b6285 centered, but I don't like where the pleats are

I reeeeeally don’t like where the pleats ended up on the back. I feel like they give me square butt pointy poofsplosions. Oh, but I’m happy with my invisible zipper! I used one of those plastic fits-all-machines invisible feet for the first time, and even though the zipper kept slipping out of the foot’s groove, it still went really well. Now I’m going to buy an actual invisible zipper foot.

b6285 yup, that's the back

Here’s the pattern diagram for the waistband that definitely shows an overlap:

b6285 waistband diagram

And here’s the actual waistband, close up. Boo! Also, I followed the instructions for the zipper-only-up-to-the-waistband-and-hooks-above to see how I’d like it. It certainly makes the zipper insertion easier! But the way it is, it’s probably possible for your back or shirt to show through. It sure would have been better with an overlapped waistband! :P:P:P

b6285 that's not an overlapped waistband!

I’ll still wear this skirt to work, even though I have a hard time finding my pockets since it keeps rotating around my waist due to it being a little big. I always have a cardigan on anyway, and for one thing, all my cardigans have great pockets, and for the other thing, it’s not like anyone can see what my waist looks like when I have giant grampa cardigans on all the time. ;D

  One Response to “Butterick 6285”

  1. That is how I sew apparel because I do it so infrequently… soldier through till the bitter end and hope for the best! I love the print you chose, and your invisible zipper looks great!

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